6. September 2014: Restaurant Belcanto

Once more I used TripAdvisor as a valuable source to find a great restaurant in a city I have never been to. And once more, I was not disappointed. In order to have the full experience of José Avillez (1-starred Michelin chef), I went for their signature “Menu Lisboa” (EUR 135.00) described as “It was from Lisbon that the Portuguese departed to discover new lands, new places and products. Guided by science and knowledge, they were responsible for the first phenomenon of globalization. Lisbon has offered the world a new and wiser point of view, more curious, more intense. In the Lisbon Menu, our story shall be told throughout twenty moments, keeping the commitment to both tradition and modernity. A story about a timeless and dateless Portuguese haute cuisine” by José Avillez; “What we do not know today, we shall know tomorrow” by Garcia de Orta, 1563).

The first moment of the night was called “Porto Tónico / Port and Tonic (2013)” [the year depicts when the dish was served for the first time by José Avillez]. The little ball was filled with port and tonic water while having a thin crust around it. The start was refreshing.

The second moment was called “azeitona / olive (2008)” and basically consisted of three different ways how olives were prepared. The dried black olive was very crispy and aromatic which already set the expectations high. After that, I had the small green olive but which was actually a liquidified olive put in liquid nitrogen making it a burst of taste once you have it in your mouth. The last course (the glass with the green liquid) unfortunately was somehow a bit dull after the green olive.

Next in line was a “Ferrero rocher / Ferrero rocher (2008)” which was not really a Ferrero rocher but rather a chocolate-coated goose liver with plated gold. It looked interesting, I admit, but it was not really anything special. The fatura on the side with caviar was interesting as an idea but as I – up to this day – have not yet understood the taste experience of caviar, I must admit, I was really not mind-blown.

After the ferrero rocher, “arroz de marisco, frango assado, feijoada / shellfish rice, roasted chicken, bean stew (2013)” was served. The shellfish cocktail with mini langustines was aromatic and flavourful.

The roasted chicken cracker was actually even more taste-intense …

… but the simplest dish was my faovurite one for this round – the bean stew was not only of perfect consistency (a thick liquid) but also tasted rich and intense like you want a soup to be.

Slowly getting from starters to main courses, net in line was the “sardinha assada nas pedras da calçada / grilled sardine (2013)”. At first I thought that this was a rather boring dish but astonishingly enough, the sardine was not as dull as I had expected it to be but actually of a great consistency and good in taste.

The next dish already looked quite funny but the “vigia / porthole (2013)” was not only an eyecatcher but also taste-wise quite a surprise. The various fishes which were served were not only fresh and good in taste but they also went incredibly well with the little sauce spots present on the plate – and in addition to that, the aspic which was at the basis of the dish was very flavourful (which I had definitely not expected).

Again, when I read it, it sounded like a rather simple dish but the “‘Torricado’ de cavala fumada em escabeche / smoked mackarel ‘Torricado’ (2014)” was actually not only good looking but also great tasting. The fish itself had a nice salty aroma but what really gave the dish the kick was the purrées which it was laid on. The little cracker on top was there to provide the respective crisipiness to the dish (which the waiter, Nuno, gladly explained). However, I haven’t been able to get my head around what the white little spots were.

When the next dish was served, “corações de alface e vitela, tutano e nozes / lettuce and veal hearts, bone marrow and walnuts (2013)” I was not too enthusiastic about eating veal hearts but I did not regret to have it tried. The combination of the meat on the cooked lettuce with the texture of the walnuts and the aroma of the bone marrow made this dish a truly great one.

Food-wise, I’m really into good food and I do not care how it looks. The “horta da galinha dos ovos de ouro / the garden of the goose that laid the golden eggs (2008)” looked not only beautiful but it also tasted beautiful (although I personally think the gold did not do much for the taste). However, the so called “Onzen Egg” was absolutely lovely.

One more moment was about to come, the “‘cozido à Portuguesa’ / Portuguese style stew´ (2014)”. Basically it is the abstract version of typical Portuguese dish where everything is cooked in the same water – vegetables , bacon, meat, etc. At first, only the vegetables are served …

… but then the sauce is poured right onto the vegetables and as the water is so rich with flavour of vegetables, bacon, sausages and who knows what is cooked in the water it makes the dish incredibly yummy. Even now, after a couple of days (while writing this review) I can still remember the intensity of the taste and it is still (literally) absolutely mouth-watering.

The next course, called “mergulho no mar / dip in the sea (2007)” was really a dip in the sea. I mean, the fish was good, no question but the water in which it was served really genuinely only tasted like salt water – which did not really make it too pleasant a dish.

The next course though was another highlight, the “leitão revisitado / suckling pig revisited (2013)” looked incredibly simple at first …

… but already became slightly more interesting in the very moment the waiter applied a bit of reduction onto the suckling pig. The pig was to a large degree skin and the fat beneath but it was somehow so aromatic you wanted to dig in even more and enjoy it for as long as possible. While having had the idea of hot lettuce already once that evening, I must admit that it went perfectly with the suckling pig.

After this course, it became slowly time to go for dessert – and the “amarguinha e pêssego / almond liquor and peach (2014)” was the first dessert. Well, in all fairness, interesting but it did not persuade me.

The next course was already look-wise intriguing large orange ball in the middle of the plate – the “tangerina e citrinos / mandarine and citrus (2013)” is a great combination of tangerine and citrus tastes while never reaching the level of being sour (as citrus fruits often are). The variety of elements interacting on the plate is great and the ball is definitely also an experience but after feeling-wise 16 courses at this point in time, it is also a rather large dish.

The next course consisted of three elements again – “casca de pinheiro, ferrero rocher e fatura / pine bark (2013), ferrero rocher and “fartura” (2014)”. The first one was quite interesting as it was actually served in the inside of a pine tree – and it was mostly filled with actual pine bark. Only the two pieces which have a white spot on them (salt) are edible – as they consist of chocolate. Taste-wise not too interesting but look-wise very much so.

The second element of the course was another “ferrero rocher” but this time actually sweet and …

… the same applied to the “fatura”. Again it was basically the same but this time with cinnamon instead of caviar – and again it was not really anything special. So, the ending of the meal was somehow not as great as some of the courses which had been served during the menu.

What was truly nice was the bread which you could pick from (4 different flavours) and I must admit that the bacon bread is actually quite tasty – also in combination with the various spreads which were served.

To enjoy such a meal fully, there is also a liquid component which has to be taken into account, so I did. The “Wine Pairing” (EUR 75.00) consisted in my personal opinion of too many white and to few red wines. However, it had very interesting elements like serving two wines or a dish (one red, one white) or bringing in yet another angle by suddendly having a wheat beer (Sovina, Porto) instead of an actual wine. Overall, the wine was good but (being more of a red wine person) it did not blow me away. However, these – let’s call them – “little experiments” were quite interesting (wines served: Murganheira Chardonnay, 2006, Tárore Varosa; Quinta de Porreis, 2012, Douro; Quinta de Porrais Reserva, 2006, Douro; Monte da Penha Grande Reserva, 2005, Alentejo; Beyra Superior, 2012, Beiras; Quinta das Báqeiras Garrafeire, 2009, Bairreda; White Port, 10 years, Vieira de Sousa) but for that much white wine I consider it a bit pricey. Else, the prices are fair – 135 EUR for a menu is definitely not in the cheap category but I must admit for what you get it is stil very fine. The same applies for the beverages (Vinho Porto V Sousa Se, 0,1L, EUR 7.00; Agua Belcanto, EUR 5.00; double espresso, EUR 4.00).

With regards to the service, one must say they are almost perfectly synchronized taking the plates at exactly the same moment and putting them down too. Also with regards to refilling the water they did a good job – sometimes one had to be a biiiit patient but really not for long, so one can say the service is very good. To sum up my experience at the Restaurant Belcanto, it can be said that the place is absolutely lovely, open kitchen to watch the chefs cook, good and dedicated service (Nuno, you did a great job!), and last but not least also good food with a few surprising elements. Get me right, the preparation of the dishes is great, it is quality-wise absolutely tasty but for me there was this “something” missing, the spark of taste you sometimes get when you try something completeyl new. However, if you are into fine dining, then the Restaurant Belcanto is definitely worth a visit (hint: book way in advance)!

Update June, 3rd, 2015: Belcanto has just been nominated #91 of the Best Restaurants of the World!

Rating:

Atmosphere:
Service:
Dishes:
Price-Performance Ratio:
Overall Rating:

Contact Details:

Restaurant Belcanto

Large de São Carlos 10

1200-410 Lisbon (PT)

Tel.: +351 213 420 607

E-Mail: belcanto@belcanto.pt

Homepage: http://www.belcanto.pt

About the Author: Sven

I started the blog in October 2009, while living in Milan which I definitely consider to be one of the food capitals of the world. I was in touch with food since my early childhood (as my father is a former chef). Whenever I can, I travel the world to discover new places, to meet people but mostly to try local dishes and to find hidden gems! If you know a place worth going, please drop a line to: info@thediningexperience.org. Currently, I am a member of the following food-related associations: Chevalier @Chaîne des Rôtisseurs Zurich-Ville; Membre Gourmet Dégustateur @Ordre Mondial des Gourmets Dégustateurs [OMGD]; Gesellschafter @Goldener Fisch and Member @Slowfood Convivium Zurich City.