7. July 2015: Restaurant Sweet Root

The tasting menu, called “Slow. Full of Colours. Tasting Dinner.” (EUR 35.00) with the wine pairing (EUR 20.00) is definitely a blast and you absolutely have to pay a visit when you visit Vilnius. The dinner starts pretty common with “bread and spread” but in this case the “spread” is actually “butter with wood sorrel oil” which leaves quite a distinct note to start.

The first course wer “brain mushrooms, crème fraîche, bread and catmint oil” served with a glass of “Agusti Torello Mata Brut Reserva Cava DO, Spain, Penedes”. The combination of the rather chewy brain mushrooms with the crôutons already provided an interesting combination with regards to texture. The whole dish was perfectly finalized with the catmint oil and the creamy consistency of the crème fraîche. Definitely a lovely start.

The “garfish …

… with fresh cucumbers salted juice” had a pretty sea-like taste. A bit too much for my personal gusto.

The next course was actually not really on the menu but more a surprise of the kitchen, respectively we had the chance to not have the same dish and therefore expanden the number of dishes we were able to try. The “traditional pasta with snails and goat milk cheese and herb hyssop sauce” was quite particular. You did, as always with snails, not taste much of the snails but the consistency of the pasta which was nicely al dente – or something pretty similar to it in combination with the goat milk cheese was definitely something quite unique.

The regular course was the “braised ox tongue, horseradish and sour milk cream, egg yolk sauce, evening primrose leaves” served with a glass of “M. Chapoutier Marius Rose Pays DOC IGBP, France, Rhone”. The ox tongue itself was rather dull but in combination with the leaves and especially the egg yolk sauce which was absolutely delicious, the dish was extraordinary.

One says that the sweetness of new things lays in its simplicity. The “green asparagus with quail eggs and chickweed” served with a glass of “Jurtschitsch Gruner Veltliner Terrasen, Austria, Kamptal” was almost a bit too simple. I mean, the asparagus was actually very aromatic and there was absolutely no wooden consistency to it as you can often experience it. However, the quail eggs added a bit of the extra note to the dish.

Next in line was the “eel, smoked potatoes, bishop’s weed and nettle sauce” served with a glass of “Domaine Chatelain Pouilly Fume Harmonie AOC, France, Loire”. At first I was a bit sceptical seeing the dish especially because the eel was basically fully covered in bishop’s weed and the potatoes looked rather boring but I must admit that the nettle sauce really did the trick and made it a sound dish. The potatoes were – for being potatoes – somehow also quite interesting.

I have tried very different flavours over the last couple of years in a variety of different consistencies but definitely never before have I tried “birch” – the “granita with birch juice” was definitely something quite unique. You could not taste much of the birch to be fair but there was a tiny hint of that flavour (or at least how I imagined that flavour to taste like) and granita instead of that regular sorbet you always get is also quite a nice idea.

One of my absolutely favourites of the night was the “braised rabbit leg, beetroot leaves and spring onions” served with a glass – finally some red wine (!) – “La Rioja Alta Vina Alberdi Reserva Rioja DOC, Spain, Rioja”. Unfortunately, from a “serving potin of view”, the rabbit was covered in green again but I must admit that the rabbit was absolutely delicious. Incredible texture – when you had a bit it would basically dissemble in your mouth and disappear into nothing but flavour.

The “rhubarb, lady fingers and mint ice cream” dessert was an interesting combination. To start with dessert – especially as this was supposed to be the last course …

… but then Sigitas managed to surprise us with yeat another surprise from the kitchen: “cold chocolate pavee, local wild strawberries, meringue with fresh honey” served with a glass of “Zweigelt, Austria”. The cold chocolate was absolutely good but what I considered very, very interesting was the “merinque with fresh honey”. Not so much because of the flavour but much more because of the texture because while the outer part was actually a tiny bit hard the rest inside was basically still liquid and creamy.

While for Lithuanian standards the EUR 55.00 (if you have the full tasting menu and the wine pairing) is rather expensive, the price is absolutely decent for what you get (and especially for Western standards). But that is not only applicable to the dishes but also to the beverages (i.e. double espresso, EUR 1.90; San Pellegrino, 0,75L, EUR 2.60; San Pellegrino, 0,33L, EUR 1.70; Grappa affinata in botti di Pilocit, Italy, EUR 7.50).

But the place is not only great because of the food you get for very decent prices but also because the atmosphere is absolutely lovely. There is an open kitchen where you can watch the chefs prepare your food throughout the whole evening. In addition to that, the interior is very stylish and you immediately feel comfortable.

But what really makes the difference is the passion of the owner, Sigitas, and his girlfriend who are there for you being great hosts. There are minor flaws in the service (i.e. you have to refill the water glass yourself) but that is more than compensated by the passion and love they have for what they do and the food and its origin – and the stories they have to tell. If you are a foodie and get to visit Vilnius, it is an absolut must to pay the Restaurant Sweet Root a visit!

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Contact Details:

Restaurant Sweet Root

Užupio g. 22-1

01203 Vilnius (LT)

Tel.: +370 68 56 07 67

E-Mail: info@sweetroot.lt

Homepage: http://www.sweetroot.lt

About the Author: Sven

I started the blog in October 2009, while living in Milan which I definitely consider to be one of the food capitals of the world. I was in touch with food since my early childhood (as my father is a former chef). Whenever I can, I travel the world to discover new places, to meet people but mostly to try local dishes and to find hidden gems! If you know a place worth going, please drop a line to: info@thediningexperience.org. Currently, I am a member of the following food-related associations: Chevalier @Chaîne des Rôtisseurs Zurich-Ville; Membre Gourmet Dégustateur @Ordre Mondial des Gourmets Dégustateurs [OMGD]; Gesellschafter @Goldener Fisch and Member @Slowfood Convivium Zurich City.