A well-deserved Michelin star in Nice: Restaurant JAN (18. February 2017)
It is three years ago since I have last paid the JAN a visit. Since, the restaurant has received it’s first Michelin star – and I think I can say, it deserves it. While last time the service was not really satisfying, it was much much better this visit. I went for the “Menu Midi” (EUR 57.00) with the respective “Wine Pairing” (EUR 20.00) which started with an amuse bouche “half cooked tuna with crust of capers; sundried tomatoes and crispy onions”. It was tiny, and it looked nice. But it tasted like a blast. Intense flavors on the subtle tuna flavor – and the crispy onions really gave the dish the extra twist! The start was great!
Before the actual lunch started, some bread and spread were served – “poppy seed bread and anis brioche, seaweed butter and Dashi butter with fresh seaweed”. Interesting combination, I thought and while I liked the anis brioche (although I am not a bit fan of anis), the poppy seed bread was good but too sweet. I think some sugar has been added – which definitely would not have been necessary. The seaweed butter was interesting but the Dashi butter was actually delicious.
As a starter of the menu, “mozzarella and braised lamb croquette with mint velouté and various vegetables” was served. It did not only look great but it also tasted this way – I mean, I was a bit skeptical at first when I saw the large croquette. And when I had the first bite (which was mainly mozzarella), I was a bit disappointed but the second one, with way more braised lamb, was actually luscious! And the combination of the velouté with the mint and the pickled vegetables was just outstanding.
At first, the “seabass filet panfried in curry on fennel chutney with beetroot and hering eggs and mussels” looked delicious. When I had the first bite, I was disappointed. And full of joy after the second bite. The fish itself was okay but nothing very interesting – however, when combined with the fennel chutney below the fish, the whole dish really became a different story – lovely, creamy, luscious, and flavor-intense!
The last course was a “meringue filled with chocolate ice cream, red fruits, vanilla cream from Madagascar and Hibiscus powder”. And let me tell you, it was luscious – might be because I’m a huge fan of vanilla but it was definitely a great dessert.
The wines which were served with the menu fit the dishes very well – however, I would have wished that they would have not only served white wines. I get it, France makes good white wines, admittedly, but I think it is a bit one sided. I would have preferred a light red with the fish but still, fair and good pairing. Before it was time to leave, they served friandises to finish off the lunch.
First, a crepe, secondly a chocolate coated mint leaf, then something which seemed like marzipan and last but not least, a sable with a marshmallow. What I like about the place is the friendliness of the waitress and the waiters – very different to my last visit.
And the attention to detail – they already had that last time but it just somehow increased …
… and it makes you want to return again and try the rest of the dishes.
Overall, I think the prices are very fair for what you get (also considering it is a Michelin-starred restaurant) in terms of dishes but also with regards to the beverages (i.e. double espresso, EUR 5.00; 1L water, EUR 6.00). Just make sure to book a table in advance – and to re-confirm your table before you go as if you do not re-confirm it, it is void and your credit card is charged anyway!
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Contact Details:
Restaurant JAN
Rue Lascaris 12
06300 Nice (F)
Tel.: +33 4 97 19 32 23
E-Mail: jh@restaurantjan.com
Homepage: http://www.restaurantjan.com