- Product Rating -

A menu based entirely on European ingredients with mind-blowing service choreography: Restaurant Noor (29. December 2019)

| February 6, 2020 | 0 Comments

I think the highlight of the whole Andalusia trip was the visit to Noor. Now, you would not really expect that much from Córdoba as it is – compared to Málaga or Granada less of a fancy place. But it turns out that the restaurant of Paco Morales, a former chef at Mugaritz, actually creates an amazing experience for you when you make it to Córdoba. Given the restaurant is relatively small with about 8 tables, it is pivotal to book sufficiently in advance.

I went for the “Manu Mudejar” (EUR 125.00) with the wine pairing “Armonia Mudejar” (EUR 65.00) which makes the whole lunch for EUR 190.00 not a cheap one but given the place has just been awarded its second Michelin star, I think that’s absolutely okay.

The lunch started with “pan de limón quemado, bonito semicurado y anchoa; aliño de pepino y menta naranja; berenjena abuñuelada con miel de caña; botarga, cogollo, lomo ibérico y lácteo sedoso” and I must say, it was an explosion of taste and flavor! I absolutely loved the amuse bouches. Smooth, refined, intense in flavor. Overall just very enjoyable!

Next in line was the “cuajada de almendras, garúm andalusí y frutos del mar” which was looking only semi-appealing but was actually absolutely enjoyable. Especially due to the ‘pickled’ almonds which had, therefore, a different consistency and a sour note making it overall a very enjoyable combination of sour, seafood, and crumbles.

The “espinacas salteadas, queso de oveja, y caracoles a la menta” was something which tasted ‘very green’. The snails in mint were a bit too crunchy for my personal gusto because you ultimately didn’t really taste anything of them anymore but just the crunchiness.

The “bread” was absolutely fabulous. They ‘only’ had two kinds of bread they offered but they also made sure that the quality of the bread served was absolutely outstanding!

Next in line was the “karim de pistacho, huevas de arenque ahumado y manzana verde con especias del desierto” which looked incredibly pretty. On top of that, the combination of the sauce with the powder covered apple cubes really made it an exceptional dish.

The “gamba frita, emulsión de caldillo de perros y tartar de vaca” was nice. I loved the way it was prepared and I personally also loved the combination of the fried prawns which were much lighter than expected and the intensity of the beef tartar.

The “menestra de verduras, untuoso de abadejo y café” was the one course which was very interesting as it tasted, again, ‘very green’ but it had a very enjoyable combination of flavors and textures.

The next course was – oysters. I understand that oysters are a part of any high class cuisine but I will personally probably never find proper access to them as I just don’t like the consistency. The “ostra al natural con zumo de aceituna Kalamata, gelée de cordero lechal y kefir” was different than usually in terms of consistency as it had a firmer consistency and less slimy but it was just still not my dish.

The “mero asado salvaje con emulsión de sus cabezas y judias verdes” on the other hand was delicious. The fish was tender and yet had a great bite. The sauce which was distributed over it was enjoyable and the greens on the bottom were outstanding.

The “pichón asado y reposado con cerezas torrefactadas y encurtidas en vinagre de manzana” was something I was not sure what to do with it. Usually, I’m not a big fan of pigeon as it has a very particular taste which isn’t entirely to my liking. But this one was actually great as it was so tender and yet had a nice and enjoyable aroma. Furthermore, the combination with the apple and chocolate elements made it a sound dish.

The first dessert was “naranja del barrio con su sopa de azahar, pesto dulce y agraz-verjus” which was good in terms of flavor and intensity.

They also did something which I haven’t experienced in any of the 3’500+ restaurants I’ve tried in the past 10 years. They sprayed some liquid on the spoon in order to intensify the taste of the dessert. Now, frankly, I’m not sure I was even remotely able to determine the difference between the first bite when that was still on the spoon and the following bites where it was gone but I must say, it was somewhat of an experience.

The “almenda mesopotámica de frutos rojos y regaliz” which was the second dessert had me already persuaded the moment it was served as it was looking so pretty. However, even after I’ve tried it, I liked the combination of flavors and textures of the dish determining my first impression was correct.

One of the highlights of the menu was the “algarroba narazí” which lookes pretty much like a chocolate dish. Now, the funny thing is, it really isn’t. I learned that previous to the introduction of chocolate to the European continent, there was something called “algarroba” which was back then kind of the chocolate substitute. Apparently, once chocolate was introduced to Europe, the Algarroba became incredibly cheap. And I do not entirely understand why as the flavors of the algarroba are so much more intense and less sweet than chocolate! Lovely!

In general, I loved the idea of the menu which was basically founded on the idea that they would only use ingredients which were already present in Europe before the discovery of America. So, no potatoes, no chocolate, no tomatoes. And they stuck with it and that is really something in terms of dedication which I consider a great idea and impressive.

What is amazing about the layout of the place is on the one hand side the fact that the whole restaurant is designed in a kind of mudejar style making the whole setting incredibly fitting together. Furthermore, the dining room is open to the kitchen so you are able to watch the kitchen and the service at all times. Paco Morales, the chef (on the right in the picture) orchestrates everything from right there and makes sure everything is under control – from the kitchen to the service. Even if one of the customers’ water glasses is about to get empty, he instructs the service to make sure to fill it up.

While this is amazing as an experience as a client, I imagine it is relatively draining and intense for the staff but I guess if you’ve been trained here, you’ll kind of make it everywhere afterwards.

I had the chance to speak to Paco for a bit and found out he had previously been working for five years at Mugaritz before deciding to open up his own restaurant back in Córdoba where his roots are. And I must say, he absolutely succeeded with that endeavor. As mentioned, the Noor isn’t really coming in cheap with EUR 190.00 for a lunch but it is definitely a very amazing experience in terms of food, atmosphere, perfect orchestration and choreography of the service and overall just an amazing experience. Make sure to book your table in advance.


Price-Performance Ratio:
Overall Rating: n.a.

Contact Details:

Restaurant Noor

Calle Pablo Ruiz Picasso 8

14014 Córdoba (E)

Tel.: +34 957 10 13 19

E-Mail: reservas@noorrestaurant.es

Homepage: http://www.noorrestaurant.es

About the Author:

I started the blog in October 2009, while living in Milan which I definitely consider to be one of the food capitals of the world. I was in touch with food since my early childhood (as my father is a former chef). Whenever I can, I travel the world to discover new places, to meet people but mostly to try local dishes and to find hidden gems! If you know a place worth going, please drop a line to: info@thediningexperience.org. Currently, I am a member of the following food-related associations: Chevalier @Chaîne des Rôtisseurs Zurich-Ville; Membre Gourmet Dégustateur @Ordre Mondial des Gourmets Dégustateurs [OMGD]; Gesellschafter @Goldener Fisch and Member @Slowfood Convivium Zurich City.
EUR 450.00 (incl. tip) Filed in: Córdoba (E), Restaurants

Post a Comment