It definitely has changed but is still outstanding: Restaurant O Paparico (6. November 2021)
Last time I’ve been to the O Paparico was in June 2014 and I still have a very vivid memory of that evening – it was definitely a unique experience. And I was ready for another one – which I got, although a bit differently this time than the previous times. We were placed in a private room which was lovely since you would really feel like you’re secluded from the rest of the guests and would be able to be as you want and do what you wanted.
We decided to go for the surprise version of the sharing menu which is basically comprised that two people together take the “Sharing Menu” (EUR 180.00 for 2 people) and can either pick the dishes they want from the menu, or let the chef chose for you. We, obviously, went for the chef to chose.
The evening started with “amuse bouches” which were “sweet potato puree with black tea in white chocolate” and “religieuse from roasted tomato, red pepper and garlic”. The first one, the white looking one was refreshing, and nice. The second one had a stronger gamey flavor (although it wasn’t game) and was definitely the perfect starter for the palate to get going.
The second amuse bouche, “chorinha” (codfish broth) was interesting but not entirely easy to eat since the dish would really fall apart the moment you split it with your spoon. But it was absolutely enjoyable.
The first surprise dish the chef had chosen was “swordfish with onions” (usually EUR 30.00). It sounds super easy and is simple in terms of the number of ingredients, however, it was complex in terms of combination of taste and texture. I think, so far, I had only had swordfish grilled, so it would have a completely different structure then when you eat it almost raw (or just cured). In any case, it was a good start into the evening.
The second course was “pork and clam ‘Alentejana style'” (usually EUR 26.00) which was a reinterpretation of a traditional Portuguese dish. And it turned out to be quite good too. I mean, the pork and the clams itself were nice but the combination with the stock and these little bubbles which had an acidic note to them was great.
Next in line was “bread, oil & butter” and we were discussing why the bread was not served in the beginning. And, assuming that was planned that way, it make sense, since else you’d just be eating that much bread that you wouldn’t be able to enjoy food afterwards.
Especially the “butter” was exquisite – smooth, intense, just perfect.
Next in line was the first main course, the “red mullet Setubalense style with fried corn” (usually EUR 36.00). The fried corn on the side with the different vegetables on top was absolutely mouth-watering. Just perfect. The red mullet was good too but it had, as red mullet somehow always have, a strong taste of its own which was still okay but close to being too much.
Next in line was a surprise dish which wasn’t on the menu, namely, “smoked eel with crustaceos ‘caldeirad’ (stew)” and while I had not expected that, I could barely believe it was eel since the eel I had eaten so far always had another consistency. However, in this combination it was mind-blowingly delicious.
The second main course was “roasted monkfish and crustaceans rice” which is usually prepared at your table but since we were in the private room, there was no room for it to be prepared, so I had to get outside to snatch a picture.
And let me tell you that the “roasted monkfish and crustaceans rice” (usually EUR 60.00) was outstanding. I mean, the quality of the rice, how it was prepared, how it was carrying the flavors, and how it had a perfect consistency of being smooth but still offering that little element of ‘bite’, was just mind-blowing.
Before the sweet parts were prepared, a palate cleanser “melon and citrines (melon and yuzu slush, melon slices, and pistachio meringue)” was served which was doing exactly that – cleansing your palate. I mean, the dish was great in terms of flavor too but the fact that it was incredibly cold and almost gave you a brain freeze definitely helped cleanse your palate.
Finally, it was dessert time and here we got a generous offer of all the three desserts which were on the menu. Starting with the “creamy sponge cake ‘Pão-de-ló Ovos Moles'” (usually EUR 22.00) [on the left in the picture] which is to be eaten with the …
… “orange blossom and pollen cream” and creates an absolutely perfect combination of flavors. Smooth, sweet, intense, light, all at once! I loved it! And could barely stop eating despite the fact that I’m usually not a big fan of sweets.
The “sweet corn cream” (usually EUR 22.00) [on the right in the picture] was somewhat like a crème brûlée but with a taste of corn which made it super interesting.
The “sweet corn sticks” which were part of this dish didn’t really work for me as they had a sour note to them (which makes sense but didn’t work for me).
The “Toucinho do Céu” (usually EUR 22.00) was the last of the desserts that evening – and it was also my least favorite dessert since it was too intense somehow.
Last but not least, we got some petit fours “almond liquer infused in an almond cake coated in white chocolate with yuzu pearls” which were the perfect ending to a great evening.
Besides the great dishes, one also has to point out the quality of the service. It might have helped a bit that Sergio had announced to the team that we were visiting, but in any case, I’m absolutely sure that they would have done a job just as great if Sergio would not have pre-announced our arrival. The team was super attentive, super friendly, super helpful, just making sure we would have everything at any time of the evening.
To start the evening and to end the evening, the bar right next to the entrance is the perfect place. It is not only really atmospheric but it is also nice in terms of selection of drinks and beverages they are offering.
To me, the O Paparico is still a save choice. It was evolved and changed over the past seven years (I mean, also hopefully so), so it’s less of this ‘homey food experience on a really high level’ but it has become more of a fine dining experience – yet, they manage to keep that special something to it making it a unique experience. I was also lucky to meet the chef and must say that he definitely knows what he does. When I’m in Porto again, I will definitely return to the O Paparico – and let you know earlier, Sergio ;-)
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Contact Details:
Restaurant O Paparico
Rua de Costa Cabral 2343
4200-232 Porto (PT)
Tel.: +351 22 540 05 48
E-Mail: reservas@opaparico.com
Homepage: http://www.opaparico.com
About the Author: Sven
I started the blog in October 2009, while living in Milan which I definitely consider to be one of the food capitals of the world. I was in touch with food since my early childhood (as my father is a former chef). Whenever I can, I travel the world to discover new places, to meet people but mostly to try local dishes and to find hidden gems! If you know a place worth going, please drop a line to: info@thediningexperience.org.
Currently, I am a member of the following food-related associations: Chevalier @Chaîne des Rôtisseurs Zurich-Ville; Membre Gourmet Dégustateur @Ordre Mondial des Gourmets Dégustateurs [OMGD]; Gesellschafter @Goldener Fisch and Member @Slowfood Convivium Zurich City. 
