Some delicious dishes and some rather unexciting ones: Restaurant Moma (19. March 2022)

When you walk to the Restaurant Moma you would not expect it to be a Michelin starred restaurant since from the outside the place is relatively small and somewhat ‘hidden’. It turns out though, once you enter and go up the stairs, there is ‘much more restaurant’ than it seems at first. The place is not exactly vast in terms of interior design and size but it’s functional and they really made the best with the limited space they have. I went for the “tasting menu” (EUR 110.00) with the “wine pairing” (EUR 60.00) which started with a selection of small amuse bouches like “tacos”, “radish and raisin”, “seed crackers”, “beef tatar”, “chicken liver” and “pecorino ice cream sandwich”. I absolutely loved the tacos, the radish the seed crackers and the chicken liver. The sandwich and the beef tatar weren’t all too spectacular though.

Next in line was some “bread” – and I don’t exactly know what that thin kind of ‘bread’ really is but it was a bit oily and a bit salty. And it was definitely absolutely delicious!

The first official course was “our seasonal garden” which was different crispy and pickled vegetables on a cream with a bed of crumbs which made it quite an interesting bite if you mixed all the different ingredients.

Next in line were “cuttlefish tagliatelle” …

… with “putanesca sauce”. Frankly, I was a bit skeptical about the cuttlefish tagliatelle since the texture is a bit special since it’s almost chewy (although it wasn’t). But in combination with the putanesca sauce it was a tasty dish.

What I really loved was the “chamomile risotto, smoked eel, honey and oregano”. The risotto was incredibly smooth and delicious in terms of flavor and texture. What really added something to the dish was the eel, or more specifically the smoked eel where the skin was grilled giving it a crispy texture. An absolutely outstanding combination.

The “traditional chitarrine ‘Gricia’, pecorino cheese, crispy pork cheek” was also kind of a highlight. The pasta was perfectly al dente, the sauce was creamy holding everything together – especially the flavors. And the crispy pork cheek on top really made it the perfect bite. For me, a small but exquisite dish.

Unfortunately, the main course, the “grilled octopus with seasonal roots and tarragon” was not really on eye level with the previous dishes. The octopus was too dry and, therefore, too chewy. The combination with the different roots was nice but somehow it didn’t really persuade me in terms of flavor.

Then, a palate cleanser was served. The “green apple sorbet with yogurt foam and honey comb” was refreshing and confusing at the same time. But confusing in a good way. Somehow the yogurt foam looked like ice cream at first sight but turned out to be super smooth and light which was lovely. Only once you dug deeper you would get to the apple sorbet which was refreshing and intense – but was perfectly balanced off by the taste of the yogurt.

The actual dessert was enjoyable to me since it had elements I love in desserst. The “pumpkin ravioli, chestnuts, chocolate and Cognac Remy Martin ice cream” had an element of surprise like the pumpkin ravioli – who would expect that for a dessert? And it was not only ‘surprising’ in terms of you wouldn’t expect that but also in terms of ‘flavor’ since the ravioli was really just raw pumpkin as the outside and then sweet cream on the inside. Secondly, there was quite a bit of caramel which I absolutely enjoy. Thirdly, the “chocolate and Cognac Remy Martin ice cream” sounded super interesting – but it was definitely way too chocolate-y for me.

Last but not least, some “friandises” were served which were absolutely okay. I have had more interesting friandises and more surprising ones but they were all good and enjoyable.

What I really loved about the place was the wine pairing. It was largely on the side of white wines but the sommelier really knew what he was doing and served some great wines – things I haven’t tried in the past and which I truly enjoyed. So, frankly, the Moma offers great food, and for a 1 Michelin star restaurant also for a decent price, but I’m personally not entirely sure I would award it a star. The food is great but there were really almost no elements of ‘real surprise’ to me. Besides maybe the crispy eel and the dessert a bit. But still, I would have expected a bit more. That being said, it’s a place I can absolutely recommend to visit.

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Contact Details:

Restaurant Moma

Via di S. Basilio 42

00187 Roma (I)

Tel.: +39 06 42 01 17 98

E-Mail: info@ristorantemoma.it

Homepage: http://www.ristorantemoma.it

About the Author: Sven

I started the blog in October 2009, while living in Milan which I definitely consider to be one of the food capitals of the world. I was in touch with food since my early childhood (as my father is a former chef). Whenever I can, I travel the world to discover new places, to meet people but mostly to try local dishes and to find hidden gems! If you know a place worth going, please drop a line to: info@thediningexperience.org. Currently, I am a member of the following food-related associations: Chevalier @Chaîne des Rôtisseurs Zurich-Ville; Membre Gourmet Dégustateur @Ordre Mondial des Gourmets Dégustateurs [OMGD]; Gesellschafter @Goldener Fisch and Member @Slowfood Convivium Zurich City.