An outstanding end of year dining experience, which looks for its match: Restaurant LAB by Sergi Arola (28. December 2024)

Doing a last Michelin star in 2024 felt like a good thing, especially since it was located in the Penha Longa resort. But, I must be honest, I was also a bit sceptical given it was located in a hotel resort because it’s not something very common in Europe. In any case, it was perfectly in walking distance and once you’ve walked in, you’re welcomed by the host, which offers you some champagne to drink on your way while you walk up to the first floor, where the restaurant’s name is prominently displayed.

Once you’re one floor up, there is a little tree, which looks nice, but is actually more than just a tree. It’s a tree, which a little surprise in it.

The first bite is one of the hanging “bonbons”, which are liquid inside and surrounded by chocolate, so, it is something, which gets your palate going. And definitely a nice surprise in terms of experience.

As the whole resort, there are always displays of art, which are quite interesting and add to the experience.

Independently of which tasting menu you will ultimately choose, your experience will start in the ‘Lab’ on a table, which depicts Portugal. And the journey starts with something called ‘Around Portugal’ …

… and which is prepared right in front of your eyes at “The Lab”.

The first course looked super promising since there were these shrimps, but it turns out that the main part of the presentation were the “pineapple tacos with pico de gallo”, which were absolutely delicious. The combination of the freshness and the spice was exquisite.

And to mimic the Vulcanic effect of the Portugues islands, some liquid nitrogen was used.

Next in line was a “Caldeirada fossil”, which basically consists of seafood and is covered in spices …

… which is then freed from the spices and eaten by hand, and it is actually quite delicious.

Next in line was an “olive tree with migas (bread, garlic, parsley, pork ham)” and these little rolls, which you can see at the bottom of the olive tree, were actually absolutely outstanding …

… and were perfect to finish with the “autumn tea (veal consomée)”.

Then it was time for a “piglet sandwich (suckling pig sandwich (skin, pig inside), pepper emulsion)”, which looked cute, and was a blast in terms of flavour combination. Definitely something, which made my tastebuds dance!

And it got even better – the “Marandese meat (kiritsch (veal croquette, meat tartare with truffle emulsion))” was the perfect tartare. The flavour of the meat on that croquette was just mouth-watering!

You finish the first part of the dinner with the “Chef’s Signature Drink”, which is light and perfect to cleanse your palate.

The second part is still served in the lab, and again, prepared right then and there.

The “Bucata de Calamar (brioche with squid ink filled with ink at low temperature)” was the little black ball in the middle, and that was just absolutely delicious. Definitely something I would want to eat again. The “clam sphere” was, frankly, a little disappointing as it tasted too much like seawater to me, but the “clam chowder soup”, which was served in the small glasses, was very flavour-intense and comforting. Finally, the “Salada de Sapateira (shiso leaf with curry, crab and kimchi)” was equally delicious as the bucata, and the perfect ending to the part of the dinner in the lab.

Then, you’re brought into the main dining room, and I decided to go for the “From Inside the Mountain Tasting Menu” (EUR 154.00), which started with “kiwi, avocado, passion fruit sorbet”. Now, that sounded like a bit of an odd combination, but the smoothness and fattiness of the avocado actually went well with the sorbet and the kiwi sauce – great first course.

Then they bring you a combination of different breads, which are really all great, and quite different from each other. Plus, with “Distintus olive oil, fermented yeast butter, smoked ham, olive chilli pepper butter”, you have more than enough options to combine the bread with. The ‘fermented yeast butter’ is definitely something, which confused my taste buds, but in a nice way. Plus, the olive oil was truly aromatic and had a nice intensity to it.

The first official course of the menu was the “Quinta da Penha Longa, cured yolk, caramelized onion, hay and caviar” and it was a great combination of umami flavours, which worked together in harmony and created a taste experience in your mouth, which is really quite unique.

On top of the great taste, I absolutely loved the little kiwi bird on top of which part of the dish was served.

Originally, the “vindaloo (veal sweetbread, shiso cream, apricot and corn)” is not part of the menu, but I figured I wanted an additional course and sweetbread is something I really like. And it was the perfect decision to do this, since the flavour profile of this dish just blew me away. The sauce went outstandingly well with the sweetbread – frankly, the flavour profile, the intensity, the spiciness of the red dots, and last but not least the creaminess of the dish on the side was just amazing.

Then it was time for the “carabiner, carrot, St. Tomé vanilla, beet, and orange”, and that was delicious too. Frankly, whenever someone prepares a carabiñero in a Michelin-starred restaurant, I have never had a bad bite. On top of that, the carabiñero tartare, which was served in the head of the carabiñero was equally delicious. Another great dish.

Then it was time for the “Mirandesa meat, cabidela rice, and foie gras tempura” – and, what am I to say, another amazing bite. The flavour of the meat was great, but I really enjoyed the texture of the meat, as it had a smoothness, but there was something to it in terms of it having a certain bite, you don’t easily find. The foie gras tempura was intense in flavour and just lovely – I mean, foie gras just has that taste of happiness. And last but not least, the cabidela was scrumptious. All in all, a delightful plate!

Then it was time for the “quindim, guava jam, cacao pulp, and raspberry” and this was yet another good combination of different flavours, textures, and temperatures. I absolutely enjoyed the dessert. Personally, I found this the weakest dish of the tasting menu, but still very enjoyable.

The evening was then finished with a few friandises, which were great again – and you had the different tastes ranging from sour to sweet, different temperatures ranging from hot to cold (resp. room temperature), and different textures.

The place is nice inside, but the main dining room – in my opinion – feels a bit too sterile. However, the staff is superbly friendly, attentive, and just makes sure everything is always perfectly in order and ready for you.

I must say, the LAB by Sergi Arola is definitely a place I can recommend you to visit when you are in the vicinity – a unique experience and one I would definitely do again! Make sure to book in advance!

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Contact Details:

Restaurant LAB by Sergi Arola

Estr. da Lagoa Azul

2714-511 Montelavar (PT)

Tel.: +351 910 001 518

E-Mail: lab@penhalonga.com

Homepage: https://www.labbysergiarola.com/en/

About the Author: Sven

I started the blog in October 2009, while living in Milan which I definitely consider to be one of the food capitals of the world. I was in touch with food since my early childhood (as my father is a former chef). Whenever I can, I travel the world to discover new places, to meet people but mostly to try local dishes and to find hidden gems! If you know a place worth going, please drop a line to: info@thediningexperience.org. Currently, I am a member of the following food-related associations: Chevalier @Chaîne des Rôtisseurs Zurich-Ville; Membre Gourmet Dégustateur @Ordre Mondial des Gourmets Dégustateurs [OMGD]; Gesellschafter @Goldener Fisch and Member @Slowfood Convivium Zurich City.