A vegetarian Michelin-star experience … leaving with a mixed impression: Restaurant Joia (7. June 2025)

Sometimes I’m so positively surprised by vegetarian dining experiences, and sometimes I’m quite underwhelmed. The Joia was somewhat in the middle. The place isn’t located too centrally, so, it’s a bit of travel. And when you then enter the space, it’s truly nothing really special, which is a bit disappointing. But then again, I was there for the food, so, I was really curious to see what I had to expect.

And somehow the same repeated as almost in all restaurants in Milan that weekend – the waiting begun. It took them a good 5 minutes to bring the menu, then another 5 to answer questions, and another 5 until I finally had some water on the table. Which is just too long!

Anyways, once the order for the “Emphasis on Nature” menu (EUR 140.00) was placed, it took the sommelier a good 10 minutes until the first wines of the “Wine Pairing” (EUR 60.00) were served. So, 30 minutes in, and nothing but water on the table. I mean, I get it, it’s a Saturday evening, it’s busy, but 30 minutes? Come on!!!

Luckily, that improved a little bit once the first course, called “sow” was served. The description reads “to perform the action of scattering or depositing seed on or in the ground so that it may grow. Also figurative and in figurative context”, and exactly that was the job. You take the nut on the corner and press it into the pot – then empty the pot including the seed with your spoon, and it’s surprisingly amazing.

Subsequently, a small pillow with a filling was served and I must say that this was also rather nice, so, my mood had immediately improved since there was finally some food on the table.

Besides the quite tasty bread and butter, it was time for the first course, the “Impermanence (chia seeds fragrant pastry, aubergine baba ganoush, tomato carpaccio, and basil sauce)”, which was served looking like a pretty flower …

… then smashed in front of your eyes …

… only to be finished with a green sauce, and that actually worked quite well as a flavor combination.

The next course wa called “Yinglong, the rain dragon (Indochina style cucumber, cashew and Himalayan curry mousse, crunchy peanuts)” and I must say, I was wondering a little bit when I saw it, if this was going to be good, but it turned out to be quite delicious. I especially enjoyed the cucumber, the creaminess on top, and the sticky crunchiness as a base.

After the dragon had chased you, it was time to go on the “Journey Home (red masala coconut milk, tiny samosa filled with sweet potato and Sicilian mango chutney)” and while it looked nice, but still somewhat regular, I was definitely wondering what it would taste like, and I must say, I was positively surprised since it tasted absolutely enjoyable.

Given I was in Italy, I felt like I should have eaten pasta, and I was happy when this course was served. The “Kanazawa’s minestra (warm Enkir spelt pappardelle, edamame patè, aubergine and mushroom in Japanese style and its dashi)” is definitely not your typical, regular pasta, but was a bit different. And it was quite nice in terms of combination of flavors and textures.

I’m used to a palate cleanser, but I was dfinitely not expecting the next course – the “carrot”, which was really just a pickled carrot seemed a bit off, but I must admit, it did actually work quite well. It was nice, refreshing, and had that nice crunch and crack you get when you bite into a carrot. So, this is definitely a good alternative to a typical sorbet as a palate cleanser.

Next in line was the “Dattareya, Yogi preceptor (roasted novel potatoes, seared ribbed courgette, our teriyaki glazed tempeh and Bordeaux gravy)”, which was a lovely display of the craft of a chef – it did not only look great, it was also absolutely tasty. One could almost say the portion was a little bit too small …

Then it was time to pay “Tribute to Tradition”, which was … yeah, what was it. I don’t really remember – and I must say, that this is then probably a sign that it wasn’t too memorable …

Then, after all, it was time for a palate cleanser – this time in the form of a small ice cream, which then led into the actual desserts …

… in the form of “The Garden of six sublimities (vegan cherries cheesecake, sesame crust, sour cherry sauce, whipped white chocolate)”, which looked beautiful, but was actually not really my dish. Why? Good question, but the texture of the cheesecake is something I will probably never get familiar with.

Luckily, I had the opportunity to try another dessert, and I must admit that the “Gong (milk and vanilla foam, cocoa ganache, apricot sorbet, peach jam, strawberries and salted crumble)” was much more to my liking. The softness and sweetness of the milk with vanilla really did the trick – a great ending to fine dinner.

Last but not least, it was time for some friandises, which were overall okay – nothing to be blown away by.

So, frankly, all in all, I found the atmosphere a bit disappointing, the service wasn’t really nailing it either (that being said, one of the waiters was doing a great job, friendly, jovial but yet professional), and overall I would not be able to recall one bite in 2 months’ time. So, sure, it’s a good experience, but not one I would need to repeat.

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Contact Details:

Restaurant Joia

Via Panfilo Castaldi 18

20124 Milano MI (I)

Tel.: +390 22 04 92 44

Homepage: http://www.joia.it

About the Author: Sven

I started the blog in October 2009, while living in Milan which I definitely consider to be one of the food capitals of the world. I was in touch with food since my early childhood (as my father is a former chef). Whenever I can, I travel the world to discover new places, to meet people but mostly to try local dishes and to find hidden gems! If you know a place worth going, please drop a line to: info@thediningexperience.org. Currently, I am a member of the following food-related associations: Chevalier @Chaîne des Rôtisseurs Zurich-Ville; Membre Gourmet Dégustateur @Ordre Mondial des Gourmets Dégustateurs [OMGD]; Gesellschafter @Goldener Fisch and Member @Slowfood Convivium Zurich City.