2. July 2015: Restaurant Tchaikovsky @ Hotel Telegraaf
If you are looking for something special and are ready to pay up, I can definitely recommend you the Restaurnat Tchaikovsky at the Hotel Telegraaf. Make sure you book a table in advance – especially if you are there as a tourist and walk around in comfortable clothes. I’ve been looked at like an alien when I entered there without having a shirt and a jacket. However, if you have a reservation, you are served.
I went for the “Six Course Tasting Menu” (EUR 75.00) with the respective “Wine Pairing” (EUR 60.00) and while it is definitely not on the cheap side – especially for Tallinn – I can highly recommend it. The dinner started with “cream cheese and paprika spread” with various bread types. Lovely to start, especially if you have the feeling that you’re starving!
Before the actual menu, a “tomato soup with cucumber cubes and basil oil, ciabattta chip with aioli” is served as an amuse bouche. The tomato soup really has more the texture of a gazpacho but is actually quite nice and refreshing, the aioli provides the little extra taste-wise.
Despite the fact that you are already served various types of bread when you’re seated, you get another basked of bread which I deem unnecessary but …
… the butter which comes with it is very smooth and aromatic.
The first course of the evening was “poached asparagus with tuna and ramsons sauce” accompanied by “2010, Riesling Mezzo Braccio IGT, Toscana, Marchesi Antinori, Italy”. The tuna was dried (or at least it tasted like) and was, therefore, very aromatic. The combination of the poached asparagus with the quail egg and the crumbles on top made a great texture and combination of tastes.
Next in line was a “venison tartar with mustard, marinated onion and rye bread croutons” accompanied by “NV Cava Brut Gran Cuvee Reserva, Segura Viudas, Spain”. The venison tartar was intense in taste without being overwhelming, the capers provided the acidity and the cucumbers the crunchiness.
The third starter of the evening was “lobster soup with sugar peas and saffron cream” accompanied by “2012 Greco di Tufo, Mastroberardino Novaserra, Italy”. The wine was not the one they originally had on the menu (a Duoro from Portugal) as they run out of it – something which should not happen in such a high-class restaurant. The lobster itself did not taste like much but the consomée was very intense and aromatic.
The first main course of the evening was “roasted sturgeon fillet from Härjanume farm with oxtail confit, and fennel-olive sauce” accompanied by “2012, Rully, Joseph Drouhin, Bourgogne, France”. The sturgeon itself did not taste like too much but the oxtail confit provided the intensity – and the fennel-olive sauce really balanced it off. The fresh fennel on the side was a great addition to the texture.
As a second main, “roasted Black Angus beef flank with truffle-potato puree and Madeira sauce” accompanied by “2005, Coto de Imaz, Gran Reserva, Rioja DOCa, Spain” was served. The beef was incredibly tender and basically dissolved in your mouth the moment you had took a bite. As simple as the dish was, as intense and interesting it tasted.
As a little greeting from the kitchen, an in-betweener was served – “lime espuma and kiwi granita”. It was a good closure for your taste buds after the main course and prepared you for dessert – “warm Rum cherry sabayon with caramel ice cream” accompanied by “2012, Recioto della Valpolicella Classico, DOC, Zeni, Italy”. The dessert was good – no question but it was almost too intense in taste. The sabayone was warm and yummy, the cherries provided a hint of sour but with a light tendency to too much acidity.
To finish off, “friandises” were served which were quite tasty. I must admit that the service was becoming better and better with time. While the first waitress was not really treating one too friendly as apparently the dresscode was not fulfilled, the service improved as soon as they realized that I was about to order the full menu with wine pairing. And the waitress which then served the table (Mari-Liis Lumi) actually did a very good job. I do understand that you treat customers differently but they should not realize it!
While the price for the dinner is definitely in the upper class – especially for Estonia, it is worth going! The food is good, the service does a good job (after the seating), the prices are generally fair (also true for beverages, i.e. 0,33L water, EUR 4.50; 0,75L water. EUR 6.50; double espresso, EUR 4.00), and last but not least, the place is very lovely and they even have a live band playing classical music (including violinists).
If you have the time and want to spend a nice evening with good food in a superb atmosphere, the Restaurant Tchaikovsky is definitely the place to go. If you want perfect treatment from the beginning, make sure to wear a shirt and jacket!
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Contact Details:
Restaurant Tchaikovsky @ Hotel Telegraaf
Vene 9
10123 Tallinn (EE)
Tel.: +372 600 06 10
E-Mail: info@telegraafhotel.com
Homepage: http://www.telegraafhotel.com/restaurant-tchaikovsky
About the Author: Sven
I started the blog in October 2009, while living in Milan which I definitely consider to be one of the food capitals of the world. I was in touch with food since my early childhood (as my father is a former chef). Whenever I can, I travel the world to discover new places, to meet people but mostly to try local dishes and to find hidden gems! If you know a place worth going, please drop a line to: info@thediningexperience.org.
Currently, I am a member of the following food-related associations: Chevalier @Chaîne des Rôtisseurs Zurich-Ville; Membre Gourmet Dégustateur @Ordre Mondial des Gourmets Dégustateurs [OMGD]; Gesellschafter @Goldener Fisch and Member @Slowfood Convivium Zurich City. 
