10. October 2015: Restaurant Sommelier

The Restaurant Sommelier is currently ranked among the best restaurants in Lisbon on TripAdvisor, and I must say that I do generally understand why. However, it was not entirely satisfying that evening. Although the “tasting menu” (EUR 50.00) started off very well with the “Salmon Tartar (wrapped in a shallot and oyster sauce on a bed of avocado and lemon drops)” as the salmon tartar was rich and the underlying avocado added that smeary fatty taste to the dish. The “Murganheira Czar” fit the dish well as an accompanying wine of the “Deluxe Wine Experience” (EUR 75.00).

And frankly, this is the first and so far only restaurant I have been to where they offer more than one alcoholic wine pairing. Here you actually have the choice between three different wine pairings – a lovely idea, and it kind of makes sense if you call your restaurant “Sommelier” that you would come up with something like that.

The second course was absolutely delicious – “warm baby lamb salad (seared calf lamb, sauteed aubergine, red onions, caramelized tomato petals, sesame seeds and mint)” and went well with the “Pêra e Manca Branco”. The lamb was incredibly tender and aromatic without having that typical “taste of lamb”. Great dish!

While the third course sounded very appealing, it was actually a huge disappointment. The “escalope of fresh foie gras (wild berries mousse and caramelized onion jelly)” accompanied by the “Royal Tokaji 5 Puttonyos” was – simply put – cold. And, therefore, really did not have much taste. We mentioned it to the waiter and they apologized a million times and even served us some wine on the house in the end – a lovely gesture, really, but still something which should not happen.

While the service was really good up to that point, attentive, friendly, doing their best, it really went a bit downhill from here on. They were still friendly but somehow the place got more crowded and the waiters started paying less attention so sometimes when the wine was brought nobody knew what they were drinking – as they just put down the wine and walked away. I mean, I get it that you are stressed when you have several tables to serve and all customers are the most important ones but frankly, if you are a place which specializes in wine, then you should explain which wine you are serving and its particularities. However, the next course was very good again – the “fresh cod fish (unsalted cod, wilted spinach, crumbled “broa” and humus)” served with a “Casal Sta. Maria Ramisco” was a lovely combination of various textures and flavors.

The main course was definitely good – the “New York Steak 28 Days Maturation (a true classic steak: soft, juicy and bursting with flavour)” served with “Vinha da Neve” had an intense flavor but I was personally expecting a bit more. Still, with regards to the meat, it is complaining on a high level as the meat was good, cooked as requested.

In order to apologize for the cold foie gras, the chef decided to send some greetings. Now, this is definitely a lovely idea but to do that in the middle of the main dish is somehow really not the smartest idea. I mean, I don’t know if the chef did not plan too well or if the service messed up but I was left wondering why someone would send “croquetas del chef” in the middle of the main course.

The dessert was “Papo de anjo (an iconic Southern lush sweetness on a Moscatel reduction, goat cheese ice cream and caramelized peanuts)” served with a glass of “Trilogia”. The combination of the goat cheese ice cream which was absolutely delicious with the sweetness of the Moscatel reduction was a nice finish.

To finish, the “Trilogy of Chocolate (white toblerone and milk chocolate with a dark chocolate cookie infused with coffee)” served with a “Niepoort Vintage, 2003” was not too exiting really but good in taste and a sound ending to the dinner.

What I liked a lot though were the “bread & spreads”, respectively especially the spreads. The bread was rather boring but the spreads were nice and the fact that you had …

… small tubes with vinegar, oil and salt definitely provided you with a “lab” feeling which was quite lovely.

Overall, the experience at the Restaurant Sommelier was a positive one. However, I was a bit disappointed in the end as the service was not entirely up to the task – especially as the restaurant got fuller. And the cold foie gras is really kind of a no go. However, as the head of service was very friendly and made up for it and as their knowledge about wine is quite extensive and they definitely offer a great variety of different wines, I would still recommend to pay the Restaurant Sommelier a visit when you’re in Lisbon.

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Contact Details:

Restaurant Sommelier

Rua Telhal 59

1150-345 Lisbon (PT)

Tel.: +351 966 244 446

E-Mail: ricardo@sommelier.pt

Homepage: http://www.sommelier.pt

About the Author: Sven

I started the blog in October 2009, while living in Milan which I definitely consider to be one of the food capitals of the world. I was in touch with food since my early childhood (as my father is a former chef). Whenever I can, I travel the world to discover new places, to meet people but mostly to try local dishes and to find hidden gems! If you know a place worth going, please drop a line to: info@thediningexperience.org. Currently, I am a member of the following food-related associations: Chevalier @Chaîne des Rôtisseurs Zurich-Ville; Membre Gourmet Dégustateur @Ordre Mondial des Gourmets Dégustateurs [OMGD]; Gesellschafter @Goldener Fisch and Member @Slowfood Convivium Zurich City.