If you want to try what Flynn McGarry has to offer, visit his ‘Gem’: Excellence Gourmetfestival with Flynn McGarry (23. October 2021)

I was super excited when I heard about Flynn McGarry coming to Europe to cook in one of the Excellence Gourmetfestival tours since I’ve visited the young chef in June 2019 in his New York restaurant ‘Gem’ and while there was some downside in terms of experience creating, he definitely had a few mouth-watering dishes which were delicious.

Therefore, my expectations were relatively high but they were not met at all – unfortunately. Once you were seated in the dining area, there was some bread and butter and while the bread was relatively dry and old, the butter was fine but the different spreads (non of which was explained) were definitely rather basic or even below basic.

Before you would be sent to the dining hall though, you were served a few amuse bouche (or ‘snacks’ as Flynn calls them) above, e.g., “oyster with fresh cheese and chive oil” and while the chive oil goes incredibly well with the oyster, the fresh cheese doesn’t really add anything to the dish.

The “cabbage chip sandwich filled with cabbage, mustard and anchovies” on the other hand was exactly to my liking. An intense bite full of flavor and that really put my hopes up to experience something truly delicious.

And that actually continued when the first course was served which was a “soup made from apples and sesame seeds with chamomile and capers. The soup was more of a mousse but it was intense in flavor, great in combination with the apples which added to the texture plus some sweetness plus the roasted capers which added a crunch. Finally, the camomile oil really added a special note. So, I was super happy and since the wine which was served with it, a “Vinattieri, Bianco del Ticino DOC, 2020, Vinattieri, Ticinio, Switzerland”, also fit quite well, things looked good.

However, the second course, a “cured and smoked trout with turnips and Asian Nashi pears” was nothing special. The trout somehow tasted more like salmon and it was smooth and intense in flavor (but in a pleasant way) but I was missing an element of surprise. The “José Pariente Barrica Verdejo, 2018, Bodegas José Priente, Rueda, Spain” which was served to the fish worked well though.

The next course was served under the theme of “flavors of autumn” and while this is content-wise true, it didn’t work for me. The “roasted squash with quince and egg yolk” was a disappointment. The roasted squash itself was fine but the cold egg yolk didn’t really add anything. Maybe the flavors would have been better/different if the egg yolk would have been warm. However, since it wasn’t, it was rather boring and also no taste experience as you would wish it to be. At least the wine, the “The Owl & The Dust Devil Icon Blend, 2017, Mendoza, Finca Decero, Argentina” was great. Not necessarily in combination with the dish since it was way too intense but definitely good.

The main course showed again why Flynn is Flynn. The “pork neck crusted with pistachios and oregano with shallots and porcini”was perfectly tender, had no strings, was nice coated with pistachios which really added to the dish, and the combination of shallots and porcini made it a delicious dish. I was especially impressed by how such a simple piece of meat like pork neck can actually be that exquisite. The wine which was served as a pairing, the “Turriga, Isola dei Nuraghi IGT, 2017, Sardegna, Argiolas, Italy” went well with it.

For dessert, “warm glazed pears with bee pollen semi-freddo and honey crumble” were served and I must say it was nice. It also went well with the “Moscato Dindarello IGT Passito, 2020, Veneto, Maculan, Italy” as a pairing but it was definitely too much wine for me personally.

The “chanterelle mushroom cinnamon roll” was something I was looking forward to since I had seen it on the menu as it was definitely something I haven’t had or tried ever. I mean who puts mushrooms in a sweet? In any case, the disappointment was there since you were barely able to taste the chanterelles.

So, to sum it up, it was nothing compared to the experience in Gem. That is just a whole different ballgame. However, Flynn is relatively approachable and friendly and definitely has grown up since 2019 since he is much more interactive than he was in his restaurant.

So, to sum it up – would I dine with Flynn again? Yes, definitely, but only in his restaurant in New York. Would I join him in an Excellence Gourmetfestival cruise? No. Pick for yourself but what you get here is nothing close to the real thing – therefore, I would personally always recommend you to fly to New York and get a real impression of what he’s able to cook.

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Contact Details:

Excellence Gourmetfestival with Flynn McGarry

River Dock

Weststraße 16

77694 Kehl (DE)

Tel.: +41 71 626 85 85

E-Mail: info@mittelthurgau.ch

Homepage: http://www.mittelthurgau.ch

About the Author: Sven

I started the blog in October 2009, while living in Milan which I definitely consider to be one of the food capitals of the world. I was in touch with food since my early childhood (as my father is a former chef). Whenever I can, I travel the world to discover new places, to meet people but mostly to try local dishes and to find hidden gems! If you know a place worth going, please drop a line to: info@thediningexperience.org. Currently, I am a member of the following food-related associations: Chevalier @Chaîne des Rôtisseurs Zurich-Ville; Membre Gourmet Dégustateur @Ordre Mondial des Gourmets Dégustateurs [OMGD]; Gesellschafter @Goldener Fisch and Member @Slowfood Convivium Zurich City.